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01.08.10: UIAA introduces new Executive Director
Ingo Nicolay It is with great pleasure that l am able to announce that the UIAA has engaged a new Executive Director. This person is Ingo Nicolay who joined the UIAA on July 1, 2010. Ingo comes to us with very impressive credentials. Not only in business but more importantly for us, as the president of the Heilbronn Section of the DAV, the German alpine club. In this capacity he has been the president of a club of 10,000 members. As such Ingo knows how to work with people in a not-for-profit organization where the challenge is to work with the motivated volunteers within the UIAA. At this time we must express our gratitude to Ingos predecessor, Judith Safford, for all of her hard work in the past and we wish her all the best in the future. I hope you will all join me in welcoming Ingo to the UIAA. Mike Mortimer President

01.08.10: Hepatitis/HIV risk for climbers?
image: Nikolaos Smalios What is the risk of blood-borne infections being transmitted to climbers? The UIAA Medical Commission attempts to answer this vital question in its latest advice paper. Sustaining cuts, abrasions or lacerations, typically on the fingertips in contact with holds, is a common occurrence in climbing, say the medical experts in the document, the most recent recommendations document to be published on the UIAA website. The Medical Commission reminds climbers of the seriousness of blood-borne infections, with millions of people suffering from HIV, and hundreds of millions with either hepatitis B or C. In spite of antiviral treatments presently available for HCV and HBV, acute or chronically affected individuals are often left untreated as they are asymptomatic until liver disease morbidity and mortally occur after 10 to 20 years. Once symptoms develop, antiviral drugs can only slow down the damage done, not reverse it. The medical experts warn that the transmission risk of HBV is known to be high among athletes in contact or collision sports, injecting drug users, those who live or visit endemic regions, and those giving first aid without appropriate protection. The number of blood borne infections transmitted is postulated to increase among athletes. Proper treatment Among the recommendations provided by the Medical Commission is the proper handling of participants with active bleeding: (They) should be removed from the event as soon as this is practical. Bleeding must be controlled and the wound cleansed with soap and water or antiseptic. Climbing holds with blood stains need to be cleaned and brushed, if necessary with antiseptic or disinfectant. They need to dry out before re-use. Italian, Portuguese documents Also added to the comprehensive list of recommendation papers that can be downloaded from the Commissions page are translations into Italian and Portuguese of the document on women going to altitude. There is also an Italian version of people with pre-existing conditions going to the mountains and the effect of extremes of temperature on drugs. Portuguese readers can also take a look at children at altitude. Many of the English-language documents have already been translated into German and Japanese. All of the texts provide essential tips on issues of importance to mountaineers or anyone going to high altitude. The UIAA Medical Commission is a global forum of doctors who meet regularly to up date information on medical issues related to the mountains.

01.08.10: Running on altitude - Skyrunning World Championships
image: ISF The first Skyrunning World Championships since the inauguration of the International Skyrunning Federation (ISF) are taking place throughout July and August across the Italian Alps. These events are held every four years alternating with the SkyGames, to be held in Spain in 2012. The ISF has applied for Observer membership to the UIAA. The ISF, in collaborating with the UIAA, wishes to share their many years of experience in the mountains, focusing in particular on safety and environmental issues and on developing international standards and guidelines, says ISF President, Marino Giacometti. The longstanding and well-established skyrunning race circuit, together with unique scientific data, represent a valuable contribution to further common ground and to safeguard mountain areas where events take place. A warm welcome is extended to all UIAA members to join the ISF in celebrating these events, Giacometti adds.

01.08.10: UIAA responds to Everest age restrictions
Everest, as seen from north (image: Carsten.nebel) The UIAA welcomes Chinas decision to ban people under 18 years of age from climbing Mount Everest. According to press reports and climbing and trekking agencies in Nepal, the decision was taken on June 10 by the Lhasa-based Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) - a branch of the Chinese Mountaineering Association, which is a UIAA Member. The move was welcomed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). While concerned about the restrictions on the freedom for exploration and human endeavour, the UIAA Access Commission applauds the actions of the CTMA and the NMA to protect minors by placing a lower age restriction on summiting Everest, said commission president Clare Bond. UIAA President, Mike Mortimer, also greeted the Chinese decision, saying young mountaineers lacked not only climbing experience, but also maturity. However, Mortimer is critical of the maximum age of 60 set by the CTMA. The issue of an upper age limit would seem to be very arbitrary and should be of concern, Mortimer said. Many climbers over the age of 60 have safely climbed Everest and other high peaks. Although medical considerations might present problems, the older climber often has a wealth of experience missing from younger people. Climbing for all ages For her part, Bond emphasises that the UIAA continues to encourage the active participation of all ages and members of society in climbing and mountaineering and the freedom to participate in the sport and enjoy the mountains. President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, added: Climbing Everest is a great challenge but not without risk and young climbers should not be pushed to undertake it. The UIAA co-ordinates around 10 youth events in the worlds mountains each year, and in 2011 plans to run a youth project in Nepal, which, according to Arran, will focus on an exchange of mountain skills between countries and supporting environmental and sport development challenges relevant to youth in Nepal. China and CTMA The CTMA is the official channel through which climbers must apply for permission to attempt peaks in Tibet. According to Lindsay Griffin of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) writing on the BMC website, it is not yet unconfirmed if these age restrictions will also apply to other high peaks on the Himalayan divide. Griffin says the decision has been made in the aftermath of (Mays) Everest ascent by 13-year-old Jordan Romero. Nine years ago Nepali schoolboy Temba Tshiri became the youngest Everest summiteer at the age of 16 (and 17 days) but lost several toes and fingers to frostbite. This put pressure on the Nepalese government to ban young climbers, and in 2003 it set a minimum age of 16. However, there is currently no upper limit, Griffin added. There do seem to be loopholes in the Chinese regulations. In exceptional circumstances the CTMA may issue a permit to a mountaineer outside the declared age range. Applications will be considered from climbers outside this age span if they can provide a medical certificate showing they are fit enough to make the ascent, though it is believed that this is most likely aimed at climbers over 60.

01.08.10: New classification system for reporting injuries
The UIAA Medical Commission has released a new recommendation to improve the reporting of mountaineering injuries. image: Vid Pogachnik In the past, the expert panel says, objective reporting of the injury site and its severity varied according to the injury definition and methodology used. This led to different conclusions making inter-study comparisons difficult or impossible. The newly published paper describes the common protocol developed by the Medical Commission to report injuries in studies. It uses a single climbing grade reference that converts UIAA climbing grades into a standardised metric form. Spanish translations Also added to the comprehensive list of recommendation papers that can be downloaded from the Commissions page are translations into Spanish of the documents on health rules, altitude sickness, portable hyperbaric chambers, nutrition, travellers diarrhoea and water disinfection. Many of the English-language documents have already been translated into German and Japanese. All of the documents provide essential tips on issues of importance to mountaineers or anyone going to high altitude. The UIAA Medical Commission is a global forum of doctors who meet regularly to up date information on medical issues related to the mountains.

01.08.10: UIAA outlines cooperation with continental bodies
View from Nevado Pisco summit (image:Florian Ederer) The UIAA has informed the Pan-American Union of Mountaineering and Climbing (UPAME) of its efforts to recognise continental organisations. Present at UPAMEs recent General Assembly in Huaraz, Peru (May 29-30) was UIAA Vice President, Jordi Colomer. The General Assembly formally approved a request to ask the UIAA to recognise UPAME. Jos Moreano, speaking in the name of UPAMEs members of the UIAA, said that they wanted to be granted the same fee conditions as developing countries and receive a reduction. Colomer said a proposal had already been made to the UIAA Board for reductions to be given to some nations. Training Standards Colomer outlined the work of the UIAA commissions and members of the commissions, and spoke about the values of the international organisation. He highlighted the UIAAs Training Standards adding that the UIAA was planning to hold a course in Chile in the near future. At the meeting, UPAME delegates approved a proposal to hold the first Skyrunner Championships in in Costa Rica next year. The 2011 UPAME General Assembly will be held in Panama. UPAME is made up of national federations from nine Latin American states.

01.08.10: Plans announced to reduce environmental impact
image: Mark Richey On the occasion of World Environment Day (June 5), the UIAA highlighted its commitment by announcing plans for a Mountain Protection label. The UIAA wants to make it easier for mountaineers to minimise their impact on the environment. For this reason the international federation is preparing the launch of a certification scheme. It foresees a label being awarded to tour operators and mountain recreation organisations which commit themselves to acting according to high mountain protection standards. As the basis for certification, the UIAA intends to use the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) guidelines Mountains and Tourism A Practical Guide to Managing the Environmental and Social Impacts of Mountain Tours and the accompanying Check List. Because they harbour so much of the worlds biodiversity, mountain regions are among the most vulnerable to the impacts of tourism, climate change, and global warming, says Linda McMillan, UIAA Mountain Protection Commission president and Deputy Vice-Chairman, IUCN-WCPA Mountains Biome. The Mountain Protection Label is designed to be an easy to use high-value tool that enables tour operators and their clients to minimise impacts on our precious mountain landscapes. Nepal support President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, and founder of the tour operator, Asian Trekking, Ang Tshering Sherpa is also enthusiastic about the plan: The Mountain Protection Label is a very exciting idea. Currently, we are investing a lot of time communicating with potential clients to convince them of our commitment to social, cultural and environmental protection. This Label will provide operators like us a convenient and trusted way to prove of our strong commitment to mountain protection ethics. According to the proposals under discussion in the UIAA, certified companies and organisations will be empowered to vote on the statutes and governance of the new label, receive invitations to Mountain Protection member events worldwide such as the forthcoming meeting on waste management organised by the American Alpine Club. There will also be occasions to come together with UIAA scientific partners and other label holders to discuss protection issues and research. image UNEP: World Environment Day World Environment Day, first held in 1972, is one of the principal vehicles through which the United Nations stimulates worldwide awareness of the environment and encourages political attention and action. This years theme is Many Species. One Planet. One Future. According to UNEP, it echoes the urgent call to conserve the diversity of life on our planet. A world without biodiversity is a very bleak prospect. Millions of people and millions of species all share the same planet.

01.08.10: Safety standards meeting focuses on lab testing and marine anchors
image: Mihai Constantinescu The UIAA Safety Commission has held its annual plenary session from June 2 to 4 in Longarone, Italy. The expert panel, which develops the safety standards for equipment recognized by climbers around the world, discussed the extent which approved testing facilities can subcontract their work as well as updates to various standards. Also on the agenda was the issue of corrosion of anchors in tropical, marine areas. The UIAA reported in October 2009 that anchors used on routes in these environments weakened due to corrosion caused by the sea and year round wet climates. It was found that 10 to 20 per cent would fail with a force of 1 to 5 KN applied. The Safety Commission will discuss minimum lifetime targets for anchors in marine environments, choosing a corrosion resistant material, and recommendations for anchors already in place. Braking Minor changes to the new Braking Devices standard, which was the first of its kind when it was published in September 2009, were expected to be adopted in Longarone. The standard deals with four kinds of braking devices: manual, locking-assisted, abseiling devices and abseiling devices with a panic function. It lays out how to conduct static strength tests to assess stress on both the rope and the braking device. The president of the Safety Commission, Jean-Franck Charlet, lead a discussion on the EN standard on strength and slipping for crampons. The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) backed a proposal to revive sharp edge rope tests, which were suspended a few years ago. This issue will be looked at by manufacturers, labs and commission members this year. Numerous standards There are currently 20 UIAA Safety Standards, ranging from helmets, ice tools and slings to pulleys, anchors and karabiners. The standards are used by many of the biggest manufacturers of mountaineering equipment.

01.08.10: Members' value highlighted at executive meeting
Kalymnos: location of the meeting Increasing value for members by providing information on expeditions and mountain huts were two of the issues discussed at the UIAAs executive meeting, held on May 8 in Kalymnos, Greece. In his address to the UIAA Management Committee, President Mike Mortimer said he would like to see a working group launched to improve the value of UIAA services to members. A second area of activity would be the forming of continental groups as well as more direct contact between the UIAA Executive Board and Member Federations. The meeting heard that Executive Director, Judith Safford, will step down, effective June 30. Her successors major task will be fund raising. Board member Jordi Colomer provided background details on the decision to dissolve the Expeditions Commission last year, and why several members of the Management Committee want to see it revived and given a new mandate. Mark Richey (United States), Frits Vrijlandt (Netherlands), Doug Scott (UK) and Buddha Basynat (Nepal) will work to put forward a proposal to relaunch the commission. The meeting unanimously approved another proposal to set up a working group UIAA Reciprocity for Huts. The groups was asked to present its first conclusions in October.

01.08.10: Unique opportunity to become Ice Climbing partner
The UIAA, with the support of CCI Media, is offering companies and brands a unique platform as partners of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup. It is an opportunity for firms to get involved in a young, cutting-edge sport with Olympic aspirations. The UIAA, as owner and developer of the Ice Climbing World Cup, is offering a wide range of rights: communication and VIP solutions, exposure and advertising opportunities, and a unique and multipurpose affiliation with the sport. Packages can be chosen that best fit a companys goals and budget. Find out more. The UIAA is working with CCI Media to expand the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit and to showcase the dynamic sport in Sochi, Russia in parallel with the 2014 Winter Olympics. CCI Media is already familiar with mountain sports, acting as marketing and sponsorship consultant to the Swiss Army organisers of the Ski Mountaineering race Patrouille des Glaciers. CCI Media is a business unit of CCI Cotting Consulting Ltd. Its chairman Patrick Cotting is a leading expert in the sponsorship and marketing field. Besides consulting multinational companies and institutions, he is a faculty member and lecturer at different universities in Switzerland and abroad (Lugano, Fribourg, Neuchtel, Cairo, Istanbul) and the worlds leading Sports Management Master programs, AISTS (sponsored by the IOC) and the FIFA Master at CIES.